Albania: A 6-day adventure


Your Guide to an Underrated Destination

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  1. Your Guide to an Underrated Destination
    1. Trip Overview
    2. Corfu
    3. Serande
    4. Ksamil
    5. The Blue Eye
    6. Gjirokaster
    7. Tirana
    8. Lake Bovilla

Trip Overview

Our Albania adventure was a venture to somewhere that very few people who we know have been to before so we didn’t have much information going into it! Most of what we wanted to do was located in the South (Ksamil beaches, Blue Eye, Gjirokaster) so we decided that we would prefer to start with this area!

Overall, a country with outstanding natural beauty, from the crystal clear seas and rivers to the white beaches and beautiful mountains and turquoise lakes.

See our trip overview and a few key takeaways below.

Flights
  • Luton – Corfu (Easyjet)
  • Tirana – Stansted (Ryanair)
  • We travelled cheap and light with hand luggage only (2 small backpacks) and 1 cabin bag.
  • Checked 2 car seats for the boys, and took our cabin-approved stroller. Bit of a pain transporting the seats plus luggage but worth it to save on paying for car seats!
Key Takeaways
  • Phone Data: Uk data will work in Corfu, BUT does not work in Albania. Purchase an e-sim from Airalo before arriving! I purchased a 10GB package and used it regularly for sat nav, web surfing and social media and left with 6GB remaining!! Download the App!
  • General Costs: Although slightly cheaper than the UK, it was not as cheap as we had been expecting it to be. Restaurant meals varied between 10 – 20 Euros for a main course depending on where you choose to eat. Beer, wine and cocktails varied in price drastically between restaurants depending on their location. Serande was much cheaper than Ksamil for example (around 3.50Euros for a draught beer in Serande / 6 Euros for a 330ml bottle in Ksamil).
  • Child Friendly: Albania does not seem particularly prepared for family tourism. Only 2 restaurants that we visited had high chairs and NOWHERE had kids menu’s. Despite this, people were incredibly friendly, welcoming and very good with our boys!
  • Cash Vs Card: More placed than expected accepted card payments, however a lot of places only took cash or had a minimum spend limit for card use. Strongly recommend carrying cash with you for smaller purchases and for tips!

Corfu

Our first stop on this adventure was Corfu, Greece; a logistical stop to allow us to catch the ferry over to Serande, Albania. We wanted to start the trip in the South of Albania, plus it was cheaper!! Corfu is a gem of the Ionian Sea and is a haven of natural beauty, rich history, and vibrant culture, making it a great destination for travelers of all ages. The charming old town is a UNESCO World Heritage site, full of narrow streets and Venetian architecture. In hindsight, I would have liked to have had a little longer than one morning to explore!! We would recommend having 1 day here if you choose to follow the same route that we did 👍🏽

Accommodation
  • 1 night stay at Theotoki Liston Suite. Easy key code entry at both street and 1st floor level.
  • Comfortable and accommodating. Provide a baby cot + Sofa Bed – fitted the 4 of us comfortably.
  • Provided a Nespresso machine and toiletries.
  • Within a pedestrian zone, so taxi’s cannot drop you to the door. Around a 50m walk to the door. 1st floor up stairs. No lift.
  • Very good location next to cafe’s, restaurants and bars.
  • 650 yds from the Old Fortress
  • 700 yds from the New Fortress
  • 1.2 miles from Mon Repos Palace
Transport
  • Airport Transfer: Pre-booked via Booking.com for 35 Euros. Tracked the flight, large ‘executive people-carrier’ for, personalised meet and greet board (we wrote a welcome message to Spiderman as Lucas is obsessed!). Our journey was around 15 minutes.
  • Taxi to the port: Taxi rank located at the side of Spianada Square (Located here). 20 Euros for a 10-15 minute drive to the Ferry Port with a quick stop to collect tickets from the Ferry company office.
  • Ferry to Serande, Albania: Departs from the Port (location here).
    • We booked with Ionaian Seaways for 50 Euros total for the 4 of us (2 Adults, 2 children).
    • You DO NOT need to arrive an hour before departure! The terminal is very small, and once you pass through the passport control there is one small shop and very little space.
    • It is CASH ONLY on the ferry itself if you are planning on buying refreshments.
    • Approximately a 1 hour journey.
    • Best Air-conditioned space is upstairs.
    • Lots of outdoor seats on the top deck, plus the best views – If traveling in summer like us, the chairs on the top get very hot so pack a towel or something for the kids to sit on plus suncream!!
Things to do / see
  • Garden of the People‘ – an easy walk and accessible for strollers. Beautiful views of the fort and of ‘Faliraki bathing Beach’
  • Faliraki bathing Beach – Shown in the picture above, a small beach that you can swim from. Very close to streets of cafe’s and restaurants too!
  • Breakfast‘The Address 92’ was a great spot (Location), with a good variety of foods including pancakes, waffles, cooked breakfasts and cold meats. Service was great and staff were very friendly with our boys. Not overly expensive and payment in card or cash.

Serande

Day 2, and the main part of our adventure found us based in Serande which is nestled along Albania’s stunning Ionian coast. This part of the country is also known as the ‘Albanian Riviera’ due to its stunningly blue and crystal clear sea. Serande itself is a vibrant seaside town with a lively promenade, lined with charming cafes, restaurants, bars and shops. This is a great base from which to explore the white beaches of Ksamil, delve into some history at the nearby ancient ruins of Butrint, a UNESCO World Heritage site, drive to check out the mesmerizing Blue Eye spring, and visit Gjirokaster, a mountainside stone town with great views and an amazing food scene. The old town here is another UNESCO World Heritage site!

Accommodation
  • Accommodation here is pretty simple all round. We booked through Booking.com again and managed to be a short walk from the promenade and restaurants and close to the port too.
  • If you are after close proximity (walking) to the seafront and the promenade then the map below shows you a good area to try and base yourself in!

Short distance walk to the promenade. On a hill so wouldn’t go further away from the sea than this (especially with kids).

Transport / Getting There
Corfu – Serande Ferry
  • We booked with Ionaian Seaways for 50 Euros total for the 4 of us (2 Adults, 2 children).
  • You DO NOT need to arrive an hour before departure! The terminal is very small, and once you pass through the passport control there is one small shop and very little space.
  • It is CASH ONLY on the ferry itself if you are planning on buying refreshments.
  • Approximately a 1 hour journey.
  • Best Air-conditioned space is upstairs.
  • Lots of outdoor seats on the top deck, plus the best views – If traveling in summer like us, the chairs on the top get very hot so pack a towel or something for the kids to sit on plus suncream!!
  • We hired a car with SurPrice car rental. Staff were great, price was decent, cars were a little old and somewhat ‘worn’. I’m not sure this would be any different with any other companies however. I would suggest shopping around a bit for this before settling on one, but a hire car is definitely the best way to have the freedom to explore.
  • Rental desk upstairs, inside the ferry arrivals terminal (tucked around to the side of the coffee shop).
  • Car collection was a few minutes walk up the road from the office (staff helped with luggage).
  • Take plenty of photographs of the car when you collect it, including of the dashboard (mileage and any warning lights!)
  • Be sure to check with your accommodation about parking availability!
  • Left-Hand driving, on the right-side of the road
Dining
  • Food was quite similar everywhere we went as far the options on the menu’s (Pasta, Risotto, Seafood and fish, Pizza).
  • LOTS of seafood (and it was yummy and fresh).
  • NO children’s menus ANYWHERE! Our boys more or less lived on Pizza which they loved of course. One Pizza normally did both boys plus lunch for the next day.
  • Only one out of all the places we ate here had a highchair. This was down on the Serande promenade.
  • Lots of restaurants along the promenade and tucked away on the street just behind the front.

Ksamil

Welcome to Ksamil, the ‘up & coming’ ‘Albanian Riviera’ destination of White ‘sands’, beach clubs and Amazingly clear waters. For what seems to be an ‘unknown’ or ‘underrated’ destination, it was very busy! Visitors can explore the huge number of beaches on offer, from beach clubs to small hidden coves. They all offer the crystal clear water and beautiful colours. Ksamil was more expensive for accommodation, hence why we stayed in Serande, but being only a 25 minute drive to the main area of beaches in the town, makes it very accessible. There are also a good number of beaches dotted along the drive from Serande to Ksamil such as ‘Mirror Beach’, which are quieter and more peaceful than those in the town.

We spent so long deliberating over which beaches to visit due to our short time there. We have given you some information on the 2 that we did visit. Hopefully this might help you to make an informed decision.

Transport / Getting There
  • Driving: Around a 25 minute drive from Serande along an easy to navigate route.
  • Bus: There are busses that run from Serande to Ksamil but we did not utilise them as we had the car. This site has some useful info about buses and other modes of transport from Serande.
Ksamil Beach 7

One of many beaches on offer in the busier part of Ksamil (see location here)

  • Arrive early around or before 9am! The beach was almost full before 10am!
  • 35 Euros for two sun-beds and an umbrella.
  • Parking is available just up the road (2 minute walk away) for 500 Lek (5Euros) for the entire day (see location here)
  • Food and drink were relatively expensive compared to Serande (see drinks menu pages here).
  • TIPS:
    • – Arrive before 9am to get a decent spot on the beach. (No front row beds available when we arrived at 9am)
    • – Pack your own food and snacks to eat during the day or buy from outside the beach.
    • – Pack a bottle opener and grab a couple of beers from the stall at the parking spot to take on the beach with you. Half the price!!
    • – If, like us, you forgot to pack any beach toys, you can grab a small set of spades and buckets starting from 7 Euros at the stall too.
Mirror Beach
  • A shorter 15 minute drive from Serande, on the drive towards Ksamil (Location here)
  • A pebbly beach, but with a very small sandier section towards the left at the waterline. Water Shoes Advised for the Kids!
  • A steep-ish windy road down from the main road turn-off. Parking was free when you pay for a sunbed!
  • 2000 Lek for 2 beds and an umbrella so cheaper thank in Ksamil, but lacks amenities nearby.
  • Climbable rocks round to the right side of the beach. Just be sure to go slowly.
  • Restaurant at the beach that serves coffee, beer, cocktails, soft drinks as well as sandwhiches and lunches too.
  • TIPS:
    • Get there early for calmer waters, easy parking and choice of sun beds (before 9am)
    • Cash to pay for the sunbeds, but the restaurant does accept card payments.
    • Water shoes are a good idea for the kids just to make walking around easier (not essential).
    • Left side of the beach is flatter into the water and more spacious. Right side has a steeper, larger pebble beach into the sea, but is near the rocks. Strongly recommend the left end of the beach with kids.

The Blue Eye

The Blue Eye, or ‘Syri i Kaltër’, is a mesmerizing natural spring located in southern Albania near the town of Muzinë. Renowned for its stunningly clear, deep blue water, the spring emerges from a more than fifty-meter-deep pool, creating an illusion of a blue eye gazing up from the earth. Surrounded by lush greenery and tranquil forests, the Blue Eye is a popular destination for nature lovers and adventure seekers alike. You can marvel at the vibrant colors , enjoy the serene environment, and even dip your toes in the chilly waters (around 9 Degrees Celsius).

We would say that this is a ‘must do’ activity and place to visit while you’re in Albania. Just be sure to read through our ‘Your Visit’ section to make sure you get the most out of your visit!

Transport / Getting There
  • Around a 35 minute drive from Serande. (Location Here)
  • Easy to navigate and a scenic drive into the mountains.
  • Self-driving is the easiest and most convenient way to get there.
  • Good value tours bookable here from Serande with transport from and back to your accommodation
Your Visit
  • Lots of parking available on arrival (Pay 200 Lek at the small ticket office when you leave the car park – no tickets issued but a 3hr time period)
  • Stalls selling refreshments, food and small souvenirs set up next to the car park.
  • Electric scooters and e-bikes available to rent also (10 Euros per hour) for those without children!
  • 300m (ish) walk from the car park up the road to the entrance.
  • Entrance payment is made here (1000 Lek / 1 Euro per adult)
  • GET THE TRAIN IN THE SUMMER WITH KIDS!! We thought the walk from the entrance would meander nicely through the forest, but NOPE! It is a 1.5km (ish) walk along a pavement that meanders round corners and up and down some decent sized hills.
  • The train runs from the entrance and is 3Euros per person each way. Under 5’s are free! (2 trains run continuously so the service is very regular).
  • The Blue Eye is magnificently beautiful. Head straight round to the viewing platform before it gets busy and fills up with people taking pictures and swimming.
  • Walk further past the platform and you can explore the track that gives you slightly different views of the crystal clear river.
  • There is a small shop selling souvenirs positioned right by the water.
  • Take a dip!? There are big signs requesting people not to swim, but everyone seems to do it! We did not swim, but we did step into the water to experience the refreshing 9 Degrees Celsius!
  • Get the return train that departs from just behind the small shop. (another 3 Euros pp)
Pictures

Gjirokaster

Gjirokaster, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is a historic city in southern Albania renowned for its well-preserved Ottoman architecture and cobbled streets. Dominated by the imposing Gjirokaster Castle, the city offers breathtaking views of the Drino River valley and a glimpse into Albania’s rich past. Visitors can explore its unique stone houses, visit intriguing museums, and experience the vibrant local culture that defines this captivating town.

A great place to visit after the Blue Eye as it offers beautiful views, quaint cobbled streets and plenty of different options for lunch and / or drinks. It also makes a nice easy loop from Serande – Blue Eye – Gjirokaster – Serande which is what we did. We definitely should have spent longer there!

Transport / Getting There
  • Around a 50 minute drive from the Blue Eye (route here)
  • Around 1 hour drive from / to Serande (route here)
  • Parking is 300 Lek for 3 hours at the underground car park at the top of the hill (Location Here)
  • If you don’t have your own transport, good value tours are available from Serande, and most will combine visiting the Blue Eye and Gjirokaster into one trip, as we did ourselves.
  • Click here for some good tours.
  • Despite having some steeper and cobbled streets, we still managed with a stroller which was a win win. We did not visit the castle so if that’s a plan then it would be worth checking accessibility for that, but as far as I am aware it is accessible.
Things to do / See
  • Lots of souvenir shops
  • Quaint side streets everywhere with outdoor seating at restaurants, coffee shops and bars.
  • Water spray, fans and comfy bench style seating, oh and GREAT PIZZA at ‘Babameto 2‘ opposite ‘Kimiteti Cafe – Museum’. Highly recommend a visit! (Location here)
  • Gjirokaster Castle Open April to September 09:00 to 19:00, October to March 09:00 to 17:00 and is 2 Euro entry. There is a small bar inside the ramparts where refreshments are served too.

Tirana

Tirana, the capital of Albania, is a city that blends its rich history with modern charm. Nestled between mountains and lush greenery, Tirana boasts colorful architecture, lively cafés, and a big arts scene that reflects its dynamic culture.

We found the city to be very busy, people were friendly and welcoming, and we definitely did not explore the city as much as we should have done! Tirana is a perfect base for exploring the surrounding landscapes of Mountains, Vineyards and Lakes such as the exquisite Lake Bovilla and the hike to the breathtaking viewpoint.

Photo by Valter Zhara on Pexels.com
Transport / Getting There
  • Air: Around a 30 minute drive from the city centre (or 40 from ‘Urban In’ where we stayed).
  • Road: 3.5 – 4Hr drive from Serande in the South (what we did).
  • Driving round the city was quite slow going, but parking in the city centre was easy enough to find. Be sure to have cash to pay with just in case!
Accommodation
  • We stayed at a brand new urban hotel called ‘UrbanIn’. Location was good (though a little far to walk to the city centre in summer heat with two small kids).
  • Very good sized apartments, with a double bedroom plus a double sofa bed. Brand new modern interior and they supplied a good sized cot with a mattress for our 2 year old!
  • Easy access to free underground parking, and very friendly reception staff.
  • Location is here
  • Their website is here.
Things to do / see / eat
  • Tirana Park: A Huge area of forest, greenery, and space to explore around an artificial lake (location here). With paved pathways, lots of cafe’s and restaurants dotted around, and kids play parks (though quite old and dated now), the park provides a great space to explore. The park also boasts a huge number of memorials, particularly for those linked to Albanian literature.
  • Mt Dajti national Park: Close to Tirana (25km), Mt Dajti offers an easily accessible escape from the hustle and bustle of the city. With a Cable car that travels to around 1600m above sea-level, this is a great place to get some fantastic views of the city and it’s surrounding countryside (check out timings, tickets and info here).
  • Ballkoni i Dajtit Restaurant: This restaurant is found at the top of the cable and offers panoramic views of the city and the mountainside below. We unfortunately didn’t have time to visit here, but in the summer it is recommended to book ahead of time, particularly for evening meals if you want a window seat. (Information here)
  • History and Museums: For those more interested in the history and local culture of the capitol, there are a huge number of museums as well as the Mosque of Et’hem Bey to visit. (This site has lots of good suggestions!)
  • FOOD: The city is full of restaurants and food outlets, ranging from cheaper fast food to high-end restaurants with multiple course tasting menus. We weren’t there long enough to fully appreciate what there was to offer as far as food and drink!

Lake Bovilla

Lake Bovilla, a hidden gem just outside Tirana, offers a breathtaking escape into nature’s tranquility. Surrounded by rugged mountains and lush forests, the lake’s turquoise waters provide a stunning backdrop for hiking, picnicking, and photography. Whether you’re seeking adventure or serenity, Lake Bovilla is a perfect destination to experience Albania’s untouched beauty.

Transport / Getting There
  • Route from our accommodation here
  • Only 18km, but just under a 1Hr drive from ‘Urban In’.
  • The majority of the drive is on unpaved roads. you DO NOT need a 4×4 vehicle. Roads are mostly dusty and stoney, with some sections with large uneven spots that require some slower and more calculated driving. It is not a dangerous or particularly risky drive and a LOT of people do this each day. (Here’s a short video to give you an idea!)
  • The last section of the drive, once you pass a quarry is paved again and takes you along the gorge and up the last windy section to the lake itself.
  • Once at the lake, continue driving up the dust road. This winds round a large number of hairpin corners up to a new restaurant.
  • Parking here is free, HOWEVER, there was what we can only assume is an unofficial payment required of 1Euro per adult to the restaurant to walk up to the viewpoint!! The payment man was not there when we arrived at 9am, but caught us on the way down. We nearly refused but had a few bits of cash left so just obliged anyway.
The Hike & Extra Information
  • You can now drive past the lake and continue up to the new restaurant. This cuts the hike distance and duration down dramatically to around 10 minutes!!
  • The walk involves mostly metal steps up the cliffside. The short climb is not too strenuous (our 4 year old did the whole thing holding our hand) and we carried our 2 year old up and back down in a carrier).
  • Easily doable for families. Just be sure to go at your own pace and don’t rush it.
  • The restaurant offers amazing panoramic views, and nice cold refreshments when you get back down from the viewpoint.
  • Inexpensive tours run from Tirana if you don’t have your own transport, or are not keen on driving along unpaved roads. Check these out for good value experiences.
Tips
  • Arrive as early as you can to beat the large tour groups and others that visit the lake and the viewpoint (restaurant doesn’t open until 9am though!)
  • We arrived about 9.15am and were the first car at the restaurant (the staff had only just arrived).
  • Don’t need long at the top, we spent about 20 minutes and the kids had a snack.
  • By 10am it was much busier. Sat in the restaurant having some cold drinks and a LOT of people were arriving and large tour groups were arriving.
  • If you are without kids…..or just want to cliff dive (watch this!), stop on the tarmac road on the way back from the lake (see location here), and you can jump off the rocks by the bridge! It’s Very High!!
  • SWIMMING: We are not entirely sure you are allowed to swim in this lake, however we found a little area and swam right next a group of Army personnel and they didn’t say anything. (Here’s the spot we walked to – parked on the corner of the main road).
  • If you are planning on taking a little dip, water shoes for the kids are essential (ground is muddy and stony).
Pictures
  • Check out some more of our photo’s here.